Unterwegs auf einem Volvo Ocean Racer
„Eat, sleep, sail, repeat” lautet das Motto, dem jeder Volvo Ocean Race Teilnehmer folgt. Und im Prinzip fühlt sich der Überführungstörn einer VO60-Yacht genauso an, meine ich zumindest. Denn ich durfte das Team Jolokia von St. Tropez nach Alicante begleiten, wo es einige Tage später beim Start der legendären Hochseeregatta nach Lissabon aufbrechen sollte.
“Komm doch mal mit”, schlägt M’Baki mir bei einen Sundowner am Chiemsee vor. Und schon höre ich mein abenteuerlustiges Ego sagen: „Ja klar, gerne!“ – Wie bitte? Ich Segelrookie will auf einer Volvo Ocean Race Yacht mitfahren? Die Rennsemmel bringt Spitzengeschwindigkeiten von bis zu 32 Knoten, also fast 60 Stundenkilometer! Was ist, wenn mir an Bord schlecht wird? Oder ich gar über die Reling gehe? ‚Es gibt einen Einsegeltag‘, versuche ich mich zu beruhigen, ‚und wenn ich mich überfordert fühle, klinke ich mich sofort aus.‘
Doch es kommt anders, als geplant. „Heute Nacht hat´s guten Wind und den müssen wir nutzen“, begrüßt mich Amaury, unser Skipper, während ich meine Tasche nach langer Anreise endlich an Deck stelle, „wir treffen uns um neun am Boot.“ Die Crew verschwindet zum Landgang und ich mit. Pünktlich sind wir zurück. Nach Einweisung in Schwimmweste und Lifebelt erhalte ich das wetterfeste Ölzeug. Amaury teilt die Positionen ein. Jeder muss mit anpacken. Ich werde mit Laurent das Backstag trimmen. Nun erst schaue ich mich auf dem Schiff um. Mittlerweile sind sogar die Schoten kaum mehr zu erkennen, denn längst hüllt die Abenddämmerung alles in diffuses Licht.
Die Rennsemmel legt ab
Immerhin sehe ich insgesamt fünf Winschen und zwei Grinder, den manuellen Antrieb der Winschen. Das schräg achtern nach Backbord und Steuerbord verlaufende Backstag dient zur Feinjustierung des Mastes, lasse ich mir später erklären. Anschließend wird die Schichteinteilung der Crew, vier Frauen und sechs Männer, abgestimmt. Dank M’Baki erhalte ich gemeinsam mit ihr, Julien, Masch’ und Olivier die erste Wache, dann gibt’s drei Stunden Schlaf, wieder drei Stunden Wache und so weiter. Erst viel später wird mir bewusst, welch kluger Schachzug das Timing war: Wir erleben traumhafte Sonnenauf- und ebensolch unvergessliche Sonnenuntergänge.
Amaury startet den Motor und wir laufen aus. Jetzt gibt es kein Zurück mehr! Vorsorglich schlucke ich eine Vomex, denn: wenn mich die Seekrankheit erwischt, ist es für Medikamente zu spät.
Draußen setzen wir die Segel. Bei einem Mast von 29 Meter Höhe ein immenser Kraftakt. Mein erster Einsatz klappt, zum Glück. Und schon rauschen wir durch die Nacht. Bis zu 27 Knoten Wind sind heute angesagt. Wir fahren auf der Kreuz, dabei erreicht das Schiff Geschwindigkeiten von knapp 19 Knoten.
Safety First
Längst habe ich mich in die Sorgleine eingepickt und die erste Gischtdusche lässt nicht lange auf sich warten. Doch das Ölzeug hält dicht. So vergeht meine erste Nachtwache wie im Flug und ich darf endlich in die Koje. Luxus ist auf einer Rennyacht fehl am Platz. Mein Bett ist eine von etwa 25 Hängematten, die unter Deck Backbord und Steuerbord hinter- und übereinander befestigt sind. Ich schlafe trotzdem.
„Aufstehn!“ Gegen Viertel vor sechs werde ich geweckt. Wie im Trance suche ich meine Stirnlampe und schalte die rote Birne ein. Das weiße Licht ist mit Rücksicht auf die Anderen tabu. Ölzeug, Schwimmweste sowie Lifebelt anziehen und ab nach draußen. Noch im Niedergang picke ich mich ein – sicher ist sicher. Irgendwann, zum Glück während unserer Wache, fahren wir die erste Wende. Dafür muss das gesamte Team an Deck. Mein späteres Resümee: in den knapp vier Tagen unterwegs fahren wir gerade einmal drei Wenden.
Unsere Kost auf hoher See ist recht simpel. Da es keinen Kühlschrank gibt, stehen nur haltbare Lebensmittel zur Verfügung. Morgens gibt es Kekse mit Tee oder Instant-Kaffee, mittags Brot und abends Astronautenkost. Aufgewärmt wird das gefriergetrocknete Essen auf einem freischwingenden Gaskocher. Doch immerhin: es schmeckt besser, als gedacht.
Jeder muss mal ans Steuer
Als Segler mit sportlichem Anspruch, fahren wir den ganzen Törn ohne Autopiloten. Das Steuern fordert höchste Konzentration, die kaum einer länger als eine halbe Stunde durchhält. Deshalb muss jeder mal ans Ruder, auch ich. Die ersten Minuten fahre ich einen unkontrollierten Schlingerkurs. „Achte darauf, dass du maximal 10 Grad minus beziehungsweise zehn Grad plus vom Kurs abweichst“, korrigiert mich M´Baki. Langsam gewöhne ich mich an die Wellen, fühle ihren Schub, ahne, wohin sie uns gleich treiben werden und steuere gegen, um gleich wieder abzufallen. Meine Kursschwankungen werden geringer und nicht ohne Stolz übergebe ich nach zwanzig Minuten korrekter Kursfahrt das Ruder an den Nächsten.
Die zweite Nacht verläuft etwas ruhiger. Der Wind hat nachgelassen und ich liege gemütlich an Deck. Über mir steht das Himmels-W von Kassiopeia, der große Wagen verschwindet gen Horizont und plötzlich grüßt mich eine riesige Sternschnuppe. Allein dafür hat sich der Törn schon gelohnt. Gekrönt wird mein letzter Tag an Bord noch mit einer atemberaubenden Delfinshow. Was für ein Erlebnis!
Nach 457 nautischen Meilen ist mein Abenteuer auf See in Alicante beendet. Zugegeben: es war anstrengend! Allein der ungewohnte Schlafrhythmus kostete Kraft. Dazu das unausweichliche Zusammenleben mit fremden Menschen auf engstem Raum. Es birgt jede Menge Konfliktpotenzial und mir wird klar: genau dafür steht das Boot. Jeder von uns ist anders, hat seine positiven Seiten, aber auch seine Schwächen. Wenn wir den anderen respektieren, wie er ist, statt ihn zu meiden, können unterschiedliche Fähigkeiten genutzt werden und so ungeahnte Kräfte freisetzen. Nos différences sont une force – unsere Vielfalt ist eine Stärke.
Team Jolokia
M´Baki Lusamvuku ist Mitglied des Team Jolokia, ein bewusst bunt zusammengewürfeltes, französisches Segelteam, das sich für Themen wie Inklusion und Integration einsetzt. Beispielhaft dafür stehen ein blinder Steuermann, übrigens ehemaliger Windsurfprofi, der den Kurs wie kein anderer hält oder der in den Armen bestens trainierte Spinnakerfahrer, der bei einem Motorradunfall ein Bein verloren hat. Das Team begleitet bekannte Rennen wie das Volvo Ocean Race, das Fastnet Race oder auch die Cowes Week (2017: 1. Platz in overall results der Triple Crown Ocean Racer). Nähere Infos: www.teamjolokia.com
Infos zum Volvo Ocean Race 2017/2018 gibt es hier www.volvooceanrace.com
Dieser Artikel erschien im Magazin abenteuer und reisen, 6/2018.
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